Early AM: Spent the first part of the night in a deep, healing sleep. Really encouraging. Subsequently my sinuses emptied themselves profusely, the results of which may have annoyed my French friends in other rooms. But hey, I tried to be responsible by getting a room to myself!
Rain is predicted for today. I'm trying to set out early after breakfast to find a bed in an albergue in Zubiri (10km) or Larrasoaña (15km). Rumor has it that the big towns are full, but that's only for pre-booking. I really hope that staying off-stage, I can get early to the albergues that don't require or take reservations. I'd hate to have to miss the flexibility of my extra time by having to pre-book or race to beat the others. Not what the Camino is about, at least not not those with some extra time.
Late afternoon:
Made it, with difficulty, to Larrasoana. Much unlike yesterday, I pretty much had the trail to myself for the morning. Staying off the traditional stages is a great advantage. The walk started in a light rain and necessitated using my sub-standard poncho. With no vents, I was soon soaked with condensation. With this cold hanging on, at least the moisture was warm!
Through tiny, pretty Lintzotan, up over Alto Erros. All alone. Through oaks and something that looks like boxwood, ascended into pines. Rain became cloud mist, then cleared. Along an undulating ridge before a steepening descent into Zubiri.
I don't think this was a typical Camino pack-lightening; pretty sure she stripped those clammy things off and changed on the spot!
Clouds clearing.
Crazy rock uplift formed the trail. On this 11km leg, I saw 7 pilgrims.
In Zubiri, a traditional stopping point for stage 1 with a pretty pilgrim bridge, the word was that all the albergues were booked up. The first three I checked were indeed. But someone I had met in Roncesvalles told me that he had been able to secure a bed in Larassoana. So after a cup of tea and a bit of bread and chocolate (regrettably small calorie count, as it turns out), I sent a hail-Mary email to the hostel pushed on for Larrasoana. Only 5.5 km.
Calories are a good thing. So is water. In my concern about finding a bed (the struggle is great at the present moment... we are in a historic mid-September surge), I had neglected fuelling my body. Didn't eat a real meal, forgot to refill water. And it caught up with me as I hurried towards finding a bed, even as I heard back that the Albergue Nicolas would hold a bed for me.
Last few km found me nearly legless. Larrasoana couldn't come fast enough, and the last mile was kinda pathetic. But I made it.
Waiting to check in, I made my first Camino friend, Marise from Canada. She stayed at the same place that I did last night, but I never saw her! We checked in together, got bunks together and went for a beer. We have a lot in common (in big transition points in careers and lives, life perspective, energy work) and will walk to and room with each other in Pamplona tomorrow. We are thinking of shipping our packs ahead to the albergue we have chosen. That will help us get there early, and get beds in the first-arrived/first accommodated albergue. Only 15 km. Today I walked over 19. Gradual improvement!
The Albergue Nicolas, btw, is wonderful. Immaculate, updated, intimate. Across the courtyard from a shop that makes meals that include wine for 12 Euro.
Life is good.
Good for you Bettina. The struggle is part of the pilgrimage! But don't forget H2O and food!! Glad you found a walking mate. Even if you don't keep up a chatter, having company is nice and listening to the soft pad of another's footsteps.