Thanks to those of you who checked in on me after I failed to post for a few days. All is well, and I am so very tired.
I'm updating gradually.
Day 3: Larasona to Panplona, 15 km
Marise and I left around 7 AM for Pamplona. (Marise's hiking poles had been nabbed by someone who keft before us.) We were taking a chance, since Pamplona is a traditional day 3 stop, it was a Saturday, and we had no reservations. So we walked as fast as we could to the Albergue Jesu& Maria, which is first-come, first served.
The 15 km was mostly downhill, until the ascent over the ridge and into the valley where Pamplona rests. The Camino led us through two urban areas, then up and through the medieval drawbridge gate and into the city. What an entrance; I almost forgot how much my feet hurt.
Made our way to the albergue, which is a repurposed 17th century seminary with 128 beds built into scaffolding around the walls. Very Camino shabby chic. Collapsed for a while, then went for medicinal beer and patates fritas. Then shopping: for me an Altus poncho, for Marise a Sim card and hiking poles.
Pamplona on a Saturday night was lively! It was a holiday weekend, lots if weddings and celebrations. We walked way too much, in search of all the stuff and dinner, but eventually found a place that would serve a full meal well ahead of the late Spanish mealtime.
Back to the albuerge, and to sleep.
Day 4: Pamplona to Punta Reina. 22 km
Hard, hard day.
5 AM wakeup, long walk out of Pamplona in the dark. At Cezor Menor by 7, stopped for coffee, bread and jam before starting the ascent up Alto de Perdon. It was a huge climb to the Mountain of Forgiveness with its famous pilgrim sculptures.
Met our Dutch friend Dennis as he climbed to the top, spent the rest of the day with him.
From there it was a steep downhill, then a walk through a beautiful valley. Last 4 km was rough. Hot and steep. Hobbled into the Jakue Albergue in Puenta de Reina with little in the tank.
Dennis had two German friends, Holm and Günther, who were at the albuerge. We spent a lovely evening together, retiring to our bunkroom where all other 4 occupants (French, Belgian, Japanese) were already sleeping. Got shushed getting into my bunk at 9!
Day 5: Punta Reina to Estella: 25 Km
Harder, harder day.
Up at 515, on to a bakery for a quick croissant and tea, then onto the Way. What we thought was going to be a relatively flat trip was...not.
Began on Puente Reina, the Queen's Bridge, built for pilgrims in the 13th century. After that, the "short, steep" ascent was anything but. Dozens of us strung out across the mountainside, puffing along. Then these large groups of Korean pilgrims would breeze by, talking and gesticulating as if they were walking on flat ground. At one point I stopped to breathe and turned around to look at a view. A Korean woman wordlessly put two Mentos into my palm. A gift of the Camino.
Over the mountain, we walked through lovely vinyards, fig and
olive trees. It was beautiful, and as perfect a camino picture as you can imagine.
But it was getting hot, and we slowed down after the first 10k. Past Merenu and Ciraqui (a former Roman outpost), we took a rest in a highway lat-by, much to the bemusement of other pilgrims. I learned that a guardrail makes an excellent foot massager.
The slog up to Lorca was real. Pretty, and in one place a local person had left water and fruit for pilgrims in the shade of an oak tree. Another gift of the Camino. Passing up through newly harvested wheat fields, Marise thought out loud that it would be cool to see crop circles. I heard popsicles, and we both got fixated on that!
We arrived at the top of the hill in Lorca as the church bell chimed noon. And we found lime popsicles! We were excited to be making good time, until we realized we were one village short. Instead of 3 km to go, we had 10 to go. Time had slowed, as had we.
The next 10k were really, really hot and painful. Foot pain for us both, knee pain for Marise. 4.8 km up and down to Villatuerta, then a rest in a suburban park. It was getting hard to imagine the next 3.7 to Estella. We were not alone...came upon a young Italian woman several times who was in tears. Marise's knee was really hurting, but we decided to give the last push a try. It was really, really hot, and we were pooped. Somehow we got to the fountain at the outskirts of Estella, and it was just. too. much for Marise's knee.
At the very moment that we realized we were still 1.5km from our hostel, and that was too far, David appeared. I've seen David every day since I sat next to him at dinner in Roncesvalles. He had been suffering earlier that day on the ascent, and his hip had collapsed on the descent into Roncesvalles. A young Czech woman had carried his pack the last km. Now David, who gad been shipping his pack ahead, saw Marise and offered to carry her pack the last 1.5 km. Another gift of the Camino.
The walk into Estella was astonishing. It's built into a cleft of the Ega river. Churches, monasteries and old fortifications loom over the town. Two medieval bridges and a lively, booming town center.
Passed the municipal albergue, looked in and saw Dennis, then passed Holm in the street.
Collapsed in the lovely Alta Hostal. Napped, showered, regrouped. Dinner and ice cream with Dennis, Holm and Günther. Home to the hostal, knowing that we were taking a rest day in the morning.
You’re doing great! Enjoy your rest day!