Day 9: Viana to Navarrete 22.3 km

Tony from New Zealand took this photo of Marise and me as we crested the hill into Navarrete. Thanks, Tony.

Marise and I are still plugging along well together. I have been so lucky to have found such a compatible Camino companion.

Another good (and packless) day. We upped our distance without packs to 22 and change and it is working to get stronger without hurting the joints. Feet and muscles are still sore, but not the bone-tired (bone-bruised for feet) that even a relatively light pack yields. And the increased speed is very noticeable.

Walk today was nice. Out of Viana in the dark, but not as early as other days because breakfast, included in our albergue, only began at 6. We were gone by 630. Out onto the plain towards Logrono, which we reached by 9. Visited the Santiago cathedral, stopped for tea and marched on.

Logrono's version of the shell way marker.

Sculptures outside the cathedral.

Scallop shells abound in the Cathedral of Santiago in Logrono.

Santiago

It took 5km along a linear park (paved, so ouchy) to get out of the city limits. Lots of tunnels under the roadways. People are friendly and several non-pilgrims wished us Buen Camino.

Urban mural of pilgrim shadows leaning towards Santiago de Compostella.

Reservoir with a nice view gave us a good spot to potty, stretch and snack. Then close to the road and up over the hill to Navarrete.

We are in La Rioja now. The bull figures heavily in local wine culture. This beast is 25 feet tall and bestrides the hill we walked over.

Navarrete from the vinyard below.

Camino view of Navarrete's local winery.

Reached the Albergue Camino de la Estrellas in good time. Changed shoes and climbed (ugh) to the top of the town to meet Marise's friend, Frederic. He was moving fast until felled by bronchitis that he credits to a woman he sat next to at breakfast in Roncesvalles. Took me 10 minutes to realize that the woman is I.

Ouch.

I had caught my cold 6 days before we met, and did not think I was still contagious. Whether I am the cause of his illness or not, it's uncomfortable to think that I have been just that in his mind all the time he has been sick. Working on letting this ugly feeling of shame wash over and past me.

Met a sweet young woman from the US, Anna. Recent college grad, fun. Speaks Spanish. She joined us (and Frederic) for dinner.

It is supposed to rain tomorrow. Not a lot, but I'm happy for the cloud cover.

919 PM and all is dark and quiet in the albuerge. Early day and 23 tomorrow.

Morrish out