Day 8: Los Arcos to Viana

Fantastic day, once again without packs. (I think there's a message here.)

Woke up naturally before 5 after a decent night, despite the many people in one room in the most basic of albuerges. Packed up in the dark and were the first out. We had read that there might be an early-morning coffee on the southbound road out of town, but we were way too early.

Headed out into the pitch dark at 5:50. No headlamps. After a few minutes of hesitation, we found ourselves out in the country with a dome of stars over our heads. What might be the International Space Station was lighting our way to the west, and the fingernail solstice moon behind us. As we walked, the moon and stars cast our shadows in front of us. A shooting star zoomed past our right shoulders, heading west. Amazing. As was the sunrise that followed.

The weather was in the mid-40s. No wind. Got to the 70s by the end of the afternoon. Cool shade, hot sun. Fall is here.

7 km got us through Sansol (cheerless town with a desolate name) and into Torres del Rio, another walled town no more than 50 yards from Sansol. So strange.

Long-yearned-for breakfast at a hostal cafe in Torres del Rio. Ran into Andrew again, and met Deb from Michigan. She had struggled the previous day with dehydration, but had recovered well, though she was carrying a huge pack. She is in our albuerge now, feeling much better.

From Torres del Rio to Viana is 11-12km, no towns. Quite a few ups and downs, beautiful landscapes. Have I mentioned how much better it was without a pack? Found Romero journaling under a tree. He slept on a church porch last night.

Viana came into view after we came around a small hill. Medieval fortress on the Navarre/Rioja border. Climbed up over the steep defensive walls and walked through one of the 4 remaining city gates. Saw Romero as he was wheeling his bike up.

Town is lovely. A large church under restoration in the center, the ruins of another, destroyed in 1844, at the end, above another gate adjacent to a lovely park.

Shopped a bit, laundry, shower, reading in the park, a very early dinner and back to the albuerge. Still have not shaken this cold, but hope to soon.