Great day! Up at 5, then on the trail before 6, a good 2 hours before sunrise.
No packs; we had shipped them on ahead to a place we had made a reservation. (More on that shortly.)
The walk up out of Estella was gradual in the dark. At Irache we visited the famous fountain of wine at around 630 AM, a good 90 minutes before it started flowing. Then up soft hills, made easier by carrying only water and snacks.
Sunrise found us at the top of a hill, looking back at the lights of Estella, and ahead at the soft valleys heading to Los Archos.
As we gazed upon this view, a Dane named Anders joined us for a bit. We saw a black fox.
Ascended into quiet Azqueta hungry and in search of caffeine. The bar (usually the place where a pilgrim can get a coffee and morning snack) wasn't open, but the Perla Negra pilgrim house around the corner had Cafe con Leche, cookies and a welcome bathroom.
Shortly after we left, we realized that we had made three miscalculations.
Total mileage in the next official stage was 20, not 27.
We had shipped our bags only 10 km!
We were on the alternate route that did not go through the town to which we had shipped our bags!
So, pivot. Called bag service and changed our bags' destination. Walked on to Los Arcos via Villamajor de Monjardin. Stopped at the top of the hill below the ruins of the old Castillo for a tortilla bocadillo and juice, then onward.
And it was beautiful. Cool breeze in our faces, sun at our backs. Undulating landscape, medieval fortresses up on the ridges.
2.5 km from Los Arcos, spent some time in the shade with fellow pilgrims including Ralf from Frankfort. He's got blister problems and is moving slowly.
Arrived in beautiful, tiny Los Arcos shortly after noon. Stunning church and tiny plaza. Found the municipal albuerge. Bags were not there, but after a call and a calm-down beer for sweet Marise's nerves, they had arrived! A snack with Romano, an Italian / Hispanic-American singer living in Spain, and spied many other familiar faces including Andrew from the Midlands and Stephen from Canada, both of whom I had dinner with last night. I've been intersecting with Stephen all along my walk.
Observations:
Plans are nice to have
Deviations from plans are normal and not catastrophic
When in need of help, ask
The Camino opens peoples' hearts and brings us together in open honesty and joy
I love walking without a pack
I love you all and deeply appreciate your support for my journey.
Please don't worry if I don't post every day. This is a pilgrimage, and I sometimes feel unhealthily stressed about keeping this blog current. I know you will understand if I spend more time experiencing the Camino than typing about it into my phone. You who traveled before cell phones know what the difference is.
XOXO
Such amazing photos and great observations. Living vicariously through your blog! :-)
Glad to catch up with you again. Got a bit worried there with the silence as it seemed you'd got a cold to contend with too. Glad you figured out carrying a pack wasn't obligatory. I think I told you we just carried day packs with basics. Also glad you got a sim card. All things to learn but seems you've cottoned on to the ways of The Way quite fast. The friends and stories along the way are so wonderful. I know you are enjoying yourself despite the challenges and weary tired feet. I can tell. Your photos are wonderful. Giving me goosebumps. I can see the autumn light and the golden colors of the fall season…