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Writer's pictureBettina Morrish

Day 33 : Reading Abbey, Burghfield, Theale

Bit off more than I could chew today, but had and exercised a good escape plan.


Originally hoped that yesterday's rest day would allow me to walk 16 flat miles from Reading Abbey to Silchester Roman Fort. My ankle and leg had other ideas, and my actual distance was about half that. Still, this time last week I wondered if I could do any walking at all, and since then I have covered over 30 miles. I'll take it.


Took the train to Reading and walked a few short blocks from the station through the modern city to the ruins of 12th century Reading Abbey. The remaining walls indicate a huge church and monastic complex.



This gate marks the entry to the Abbey and the start of the St James Way. There's a Camino marker on the left side of the gate.




The Camino path begins on the Abbey Wharf and follows the River Kennet for seven miles.



At first, the footpaths are city sidewalks, then asphalt, then gravel and grass. Though I was walking through an industrial city, the footpath was green, and the Kennet peaceful.


The river, once a major artery for trade that connects to the Thames in Reading, is still traveled by narrow boats that pass by outboard motors through locks. I saw a lot of moored boats as I headed into Burghfield to collect my stamp at the Cunning Man.






From there, the Kennet opened up, and at a perfect moment, the prettiest boat I saw all day sailed into view.



A mile or so further on, I found a bench next to a lock to rest my aching foot. As I sat, a narrow boat loaded with oil, gas, firewood and kindling (to refuel other narrow boats) pulled into view and began the process of moving the boat upstream through the lock system. Moored the boat, opened the lower lock gate, moved the boat into the lock, moored the boat again, closed the lower gate, opened the paddles on the upper lock to let the water in, unmoored the boat to let it float up.



While the lock was filling, the boatman came over to chat with me, observing that I looked very relaxed on my bench in the sun. I observed that I was enjoying watching him work so hard while I sat in my puddle of sun! We enjoyed the sunshine together, discussing our respective routes that day. If he'd been going mybway, I might have asked forcacride. When the lock was filled, he opened the gate and motored through while I closed it behind him. My kind of work!


My fuel boat friend disappearing into the distance.


Shortly after this pleasant experience, I called it quits and walked into Theale. It was either this train station or the next one 7 miles down the Way. With no shops to buy ice or frozen peas, and remembering Sarah the Phisio's admonition to stop in time before I undo my progress, I had to do it. Caught the train back to Reading, and a few transfers later was met by Emma at Micheldever, 10 minutes from home.


Ice and rest. Will see what tomorrow holds.

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