Super day. Cool weather, a bit of rain, wide open spaces and an uncrowded Camino.
Started out early and rough when we realized that there would be no coffee, food or toilets for 17 km. We gunned it onwards, covering 17 km in 4 hours, +\_. Landscape was vinyards and olive trees all the way.
As we crested one hill, found a man playing a guitar, foot tambourine and harmonica, singing Stairway to Heaven.
Marise chose to carry her pack today, and I continue not to. I arrived in Najera's church square a bit ahead of her... first time ever that I have been faster than any hiking partner.
Najera is amazing. A super-ugly approach through various industrial concerns, then down into a cleft dug by a river. The city is built into a red rock cliff, and the church is built around a cave. I was so eager to find a cafe with a bathroom that I took no photos.
Sat in the square a bit, taking a much needed foot health break with cafe con leche and pane. It's Saturday, and all around us local people were enjoying wine and pinxos at 11:30 AM, ahead of their midday meal. I went searching for a few things like cough medicine, apples and bread before we hauled ourselves back up to our feet to take on the last 5.5 k.
With food, caffeine and ibuprofen in us, the last bit went well, and soon sleepy Azofra came into view across more rolling vinyards. We walked past small grape harvest crews, and several tractors full of grapes rattled up the road into town as we approached.
Azofra is small, but it has a top-notch albuerge for 10 euros. All rooms are doubles... no need to share with snorers. This is the first double we've had. Other night we've been in dorms of 6-18, almost always co-ed.
Taking a break now under Hudson Bay-type blankets, legs up the wall to stretch out the aches. Then shower, warm clothes and a bit of walkabout in town in search of a few groceries, food and some local Rioja wine!
We ended up cooking in the albuerge: supermercado only had eggs by the dozen, so it was carbonara time. The communal kichen was busy, and we sat and talked with Anne from Montana and Raquel, also US. We had some wine of varying quality ; mine cost $1.50 and was from a milk carton, wins worst wine award.
Dinner done, we went to our " room" and crashed. Marise was asleep by 745 and my light was out by 815.
Loving your photographs. Sounds like you're beginning to get into the rhythm of The Way. So many little things that you will find enlightening. Go Bettina. I sure miss the Spanish cafe con leche and pane.
Following along with your journey. The posts are delightful! You are giving us all a high bar for pilgrimages. Take care and love your journey!
I savor your missives - so I'm a few posts behind! Got to get my map and follow you. God speed! Sarah