So much to catch up on!
Day 27: Quiet time
Went to see Sarah the Phisio, who said that my leg looked way better. She taped me up and gave me some stretches and light resistance exercises.
Day 28: Walking, quick visit to London
Tried out the newly-taped leg with a short walk across the street at the Grange. Its an old estate with a huge Palladian home, long empty. It's used now as a theater and venue. Emma's sister Becca caters the summer opera festival.
Leg felt pretty good. Ready to try something bigger.
In the late afternoon, Emma and I took the train from Basingstoke to London. She met a friend for dinner, and I went to see dear friend Heidi in Bermondsea. It was a delight to reunite with her, niece Archer (longtime neighbor in Lexington) and Archer's partner Dillon. Very importantly, I got to meet Heidi's new partner, Paul, and delighted in seeing the two so happy together. Looking forward to a New Years reunion in Lexington. Maybe we will remember to take a photo?
Late PM Train ride back made me very happy not to to be a London commuter. Lots of people eating plastic-packaged salads at 10:30, glued to their phones. Nothing against it for those for whom it's a choice or necessity, just not a life I wish for myself.
Day 29: Walking again!
Put on my boots and did a part of the the St James Way, close to Emma's. She dropped me off at the 12th Century Church of St James in tiny Upper Wield.
After visiting the beautiful church and getting my first stamp on the English Camino, I set out in the Way again. Along the road at first, then onto the Oxdrove, 4 miles South through chalky fields and mostly deciduous woods. A few stands of tall pines. I got a little weepy at seeing my first Camino markers on posts and even the beloved yellow arrow spray-painted on the road.
Came to Old Alresford (very close to Emma's and Colin's), took a rest on a bench in the sun, then continued on to a magical few hours along the River Alre in New Alresford.
As I came down the hill from St. John's church and saw the path blazed with a Camino marker, I heard the rush of water. If you know me, moving water is my happy. It took some restraint not to run towards it.
Under the footbridge rushed the Alre as it was channeled into terraces filled with hip-high watercress. I entered the watercress growing capitol of England. The path to Alresford moves under willows, along boardwalks and gravel, water gurgling everywhere.
As I came into the town, the water sounds intensified, and the Town Mill along the weir came into view. It's a staircase of water, winding around the converted Mill, emptying into a pool flanked by a beautiful garden. I heard a voice close by: "Oh! Oh! Oh!." Mine.
Instead of going straight into town (and against the voice in my head that said that I should stop for the day before I hurt myself again) I turned right onto the River Walk. (Cuz, you know, River.)
Oh my. Storybook setting. Swan posing in front of the Fulling Mill. Benches in the sun, ducks climbing over my boots. An Eel house. And everywhere, cold, clear, burbling water. Sheer heaven.
Eventually I turned my back to the river and climbed up Mill Hill into the town. Wove my way through carnies setting up for Alresford's annual Fun Night festival and bought a bag of frozen peas. I'd walked 8 glorious miles, was elated to be out again, and it was time to show my cooperative leg some icy love.
Back to Emma's. Dinner at a close-by pub, the Three Horseshoes. The building is owned by the community and the pub and restaurant are booming. Great food and atmosphere. I do not exel at taking selfies, but here's proof of life anyway.
Day 30: Alresford, Ovington, Itchen Stoke, Itchen Abbas, Martyr Worthy
Early start today; hitched a ride to Alresford with Emma and Colin on their way to their early exercise class. Walked up and out of town, between hedges and walls and onto St Swithun's Way, part of the medieval pilgrimage route to the shrine of St Thomas Becket in Canterbury. On a map, this area is called the Watercress Beds, and for good reason. On both sides of the paved path, shallow watery beds are filled with the bright green stuff, as the water of the rivers Itchen and Alre are diverted. So green.
Over over a hill and down a treed lane to Ovington, home to The Bush Pub. Great location, but not open yet.
Took the gorgeous detour onto a causeway between the Itchen and a diverted canal to the Church of St Mary in Itchen Stoke.
The church's chancel has a labyrinth inlaid in the floor beneath the altar.
A bag of apples lay on the table inside, with a note to help yourself. A gift of the Camino.
Back along the Itchen Way. Through many farm fields with a public right of way for walkers. Lots of stiles and cow pies, no humans in sight.
More proof of life. My bovine Camiga were useless in my campaign to avoid more selfies.
Up over a hill, through some woods, along a golf course, past a huge estate and over two footbridges into Itchen Abbas.
A woman coming out of St John's Church apologized that the decorations were "half harvest and half taken apart," but I found it beautiful. The 12th century Norman church was rebuilt in the 19th, but the entry "porch" and the chancel incorporated the clean, simple Norman elements.
Waited til noon for the Plough Pub to open. Delicious, hot mushroom/blue cheese soup garnished with watercress. And a half pint because, England. Like the church, the pub had a pilgrim's stamp.
Up and back to the last 1 1/2 miles and into Martyr Worthy. Some dog walkers with friendly, muddy pups., The Itchen below. Lots of swans.
There is a cluster of villages with "Worthy" in their name, who were all listed in the Norman (tax roll) Domesday Book. I took a wrong turn (actually, two) along the Itchen, but righted my course fairly quickly and had just finished visiting St Swithun's church (another 12th/19th Century melange) when Emma picked me up.
I was on the path for 6 1/2 hours. It took 20 minutes to get back home by car.
Leg is a bit sore, but ice and an Epsom Salt bath have helped. Will see about what to tackle tomorrow. Maybe begin in Reading and move south in this direction. Want to leave the remaining part from the Worthys to Southampton until next week, when I'm based in Winchester for my last days.
Step by step. Open mind, open eyes, open heart.
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